2023 Robert Weil Kiedrich Grafenberg Grosses Gewachs Riesling Trocken, Rheingau

The 2023 Riesling Kiedricher Gräfenberg Grosses Gewächs opens slowly but teases with scents of lemon balm and chervil, followed by a touch of yeast and citrus foliage. The palate is superbly fluid, pushing forward with citric energy, life force and exuberance. The senses can only hope to catch up with this dynamic movement. That scented cloud of citrus revels in refreshing yet absolutely full-fruited briskness. This is a picture of a dry Riesling—exciting, sleek and full of joy.

 98 points Anne Krebiehl MW vinous.com

This pumps up the volume and cranks up the AC at the same time. The expansive aromas of yellow and white fruit, mandarin oranges and delicate notes of baking spices pull you into this complex and concentrated dry riesling. Terrific interplay of stony acidity with fine tannins and leesy creaminess on the medium- to full-bodied palate. Then comes the explosion of citrusy freshness in the super-long, zesty finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink from release.

97 points Stuart Pigott jamessuckling.com

Robert Weil Kiedrich Gräfenberg Grosses Gewächs Riesling Trocken is a powerful, deeply structured dry Riesling from one of Germany’s most iconic Grand Cru vineyards. This wine is the pinnacle of dry Rheingau Riesling—complex, mineral, and built to age—crafted with precision and care by Wilhelm Weil and his team at one of the region’s most prestigious estates.

The Gräfenberg vineyard is a steep, southwest-facing slope just above the village of Kiedrich, where ancient phyllite slate and loess soils create the ideal environment for Riesling to develop intense concentration and crystalline purity. Its Grosses Gewächs classification marks it as a top-tier dry wine from a site of historic and consistent excellence.

Grapes for this wine are hand harvested in small parcels, with multiple passes through the vineyard to capture perfect phenolic ripeness. Fermentation is done slowly and cool in stainless steel to retain energy and aromatics, followed by extended lees ageing to add texture and savoury depth.

In the glass, it reveals aromas of lime zest, green apple, crushed herbs, white peach, and a distinct flinty edge. The palate is dry and powerful yet tightly coiled, with focused citrus, saline minerality, and a taut acid spine that drives the long, structured finish. This is a wine that demands attention now and will reward patience over decades.

An outstanding match for fine seafood, veal in lemon butter, or rich vegetarian dishes, it also shines on its own as a statement of what German dry Riesling can achieve at the highest level.