2023 Seguinot Bordet Vaudesir Chablis Grand Cru, Burgundy

A trace of wood frames softly exotic, fresh and spicy aromas of white peach, lemon confit, iodine and oyster shell. There is lovely intensity to the refined medium-bodied flavors that flash evident minerality on the dry, focused andimpressively long and equally bone-dry finish. This succulent but punchy effort has the stuffing to repay up to a decade ofkeeping yet should be reasonably approachable young too.

92 points Burghound

Domaine Séguinot-Bordet is one of Chablis’ historic family estates, with the Séguinot family’s roots in the region stretching back to the late 1500s. Today Jean-François Bordet continues that remarkable lineage from Maligny, producing beautifully expressive Chablis with a strong sense of place. Vaudésir is one of Chablis’ seven Grands Crus, a natural amphitheatre on the famous Grand Cru hillside where steep slopes and Kimmeridgian limestone create wines of both generosity and mineral drive.

The 2023 vintage brought ripe, generous fruit to Chablis while retaining the acidity that gives the region its unmistakable energy. Vaudésir naturally tends towards a more seductive, rounded expression of Grand Cru Chablis, yet beneath that generosity lies the oyster-shell, chalk and saline character of its ancient limestone and fossil-rich marl soils.

Pale gold with a bright glint, the nose opens with preserved lemon, white peach and ripe pear before moving into citrus blossom, oyster shell and fresh almond. With air come grapefruit oil, crushed chalk and a faint smoky note. The palate has lovely breadth, with ripe citrus and stone fruit wrapped around bright acidity and a firm mineral core. There’s a creamy generosity through the middle before a long, salty finish of lemon oil, wet stone and toasted almond.

Give this one the good plates: butter-poached lobster, scallops with brown butter, grilled turbot, crab with lemon mayonnaise or roast chicken with morels. 

Cellaring: Drink from 2027 to 2040.