2023 Serafino Reserve Grenache, McLaren Vale

The Serafino Reserve Grenache from McLaren Vale is an unapologetically plush, old-vine red that wears its heritage with swagger. Sourced from gnarly bush vines planted in the Seaview subregion – some more than 60 years old – this is a wine that speaks fluently in the dialect of McLaren Vale Grenache: fragrant, spicy, sun-drenched, yet elegant.

Winemaker Charles Whish has a deft hand with Grenache, crafting this Reserve bottling with minimal oak influence to let the fruit do the talking. It opens with lifted aromatics of raspberry compote, blood orange peel, red cherry and rose petal, underpinned by wild thyme and a whisper of earth. The palate is supple and pure-fruited, with silken tannins and a long, juicy finish that lingers with crushed red berries and spice-dusted plum. It’s medium-bodied, but don’t mistake that for meek – there’s depth, energy, and the kind of brightness that makes you wonder why we’re not all drinking more McLaren Vale Grenache.

Serafino Wines has been a key player in the Vale since the 1960s, when founder Steve (Serafino) Maglieri brought his Italian sensibility – and a love of generous hospitality – to the region. Today, the Serafino name is synonymous with bold red wines, and this Reserve Grenache sits right at the top of the tree, showing just how refined and expressive the variety can be in the right hands.

Food pairing: Roast duck with five spice, Moroccan lamb tagine, chargrilled eggplant with tahini and pomegranate, or a wild mushroom risotto.

Cellar potential: Beautifully expressive now, but with fine tannins and acidity to age gracefully over the next 6–8 years.