2023 Stefano Lubiana Collina Chardonnay Biodynamic, Derwent Valley

Tightly wound aromas of lemon peel, lime curd, orange blossoms and flint. The palate is medium-bodied with laser-like acidity and a creamy texture, giving notes of mandarin rind, white nectarines and red apple skin. Made from select hillside parcels and treated with a light hand in the winery. Pure class. Drink or hold.

96 points jamessuckling.com

Chardonnay of silty grey loam over white gravelly clay on the Lubiana estate in the Derwent Valley. Light straw with aromas of white peach, nectarine and citrus with a wisp of struck-flint complexity and hints of grilled nuts, nougat, pressed flowers, almond paste, light vanillin oak, clotted cream and crushed stone. Lemon curd unfurls on the palate. The flow of fruit shows some richness and yellow plum tones, with an extended creamy finish and fine, lacy acidity driving thing along nicely. A mouth-filling style with a lot of class.

95 points Dave Brookes winecompanion.com.au

From the cool, sheltered slopes of the Derwent Valley comes a Chardonnay that reflects both biodynamic precision and Tasmanian finesse. Established in 1990 by Stefano and Monique Lubiana, the estate became one of Australia’s pioneers of certified biodynamic viticulture, farming with a deep respect for soil health, balance and natural expression. The Estate Chardonnay is drawn from carefully tended vineyard blocks planted on gravelly and sandstone influenced soils that provide natural drainage and mineral tension. The long, cool growing season of southern Tasmania allows slow ripening, building flavour complexity while retaining vibrant natural acidity.

Pale straw with bright green highlights, the aromatics are refined and layered. White peach, nectarine and lemon zest unfold alongside subtle grapefruit, crushed stone and a gentle hint of almond meal. There is a delicate flinty nuance that adds intrigue while preserving purity of fruit.

On the palate it is medium bodied and beautifully structured, combining stone fruit generosity with bright acidity and textural depth from thoughtful lees work. Citrus and orchard fruit glide across a finely balanced frame, supported by discreet oak that adds shape rather than weight. A mineral line carries through to a long, clean finish with lingering notes of lemon curd and subtle nuttiness. It is Chardonnay defined by restraint, clarity and cool climate energy.

Pair with grilled scallops, roast chicken with tarragon, lobster with herb butter or a creamy mushroom risotto. While vibrant and expressive in its youth, this biodynamic Chardonnay will cellar confidently for eight to twelve years, developing nutty, honeyed complexity while retaining its structural backbone.