2023 Sylvain Cathiard Nuits St Georges 1er Cru aux Thorey, Burgundy

A lighter crimson colour. There is some weight of ripe fruit on the nose, and significantly more on the palate than the village wines, with a depth of dark strawberry and raspberry. Adequate acidity and well tamed tannins supply the structure. Good length to complete the deal. Drink from 2030-2036. Tasted Nov 2024.

92-94 points Jasper Morris MW insideburgundy.com

Sylvain Cathiard Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Aux Thorey from Burgundy is a wine of rare refinement and sensuality, a perfect reflection of the Cathiard family’s meticulous craftsmanship and deep respect for terroir. Under the stewardship of Sébastien Cathiard, this domaine has become one of the most sought-after in the Côte de Nuits, producing wines of extraordinary purity, texture and precision. Aux Thorey, a prized Premier Cru vineyard north of the village of Nuits-Saint-Georges, sits just below the Vosne-Romanée border — an origin that lends this wine its remarkable blend of structure, perfume and elegance.

The vineyard’s eastern exposure and limestone-rich soils produce Pinot Noir of exquisite balance. The fruit is entirely hand harvested and sorted, then fermented with natural yeasts in small open vats. Ageing takes place for around 18 months in French oak barrels, about half new, with minimal intervention to preserve the integrity of the fruit and site. The result is a wine of great finesse and quiet power — unmistakably Cathiard in style, defined by silken texture and haunting perfume.

In the glass it glows deep ruby with garnet reflections. The aroma is intoxicating, showing layers of red and black cherry, wild strawberry, rose petal and subtle spice, underpinned by earthy minerality and a whisper of fine oak. The palate is medium bodied and beautifully detailed, with supple tannins and a seamless interplay of fruit, acidity and structure. Notes of cherry, plum and forest floor linger through a long, graceful finish that combines Nuits’ savoury depth with Vosne’s aromatic lift.

It pairs beautifully with duck, roast lamb, mushroom dishes or game birds, and it is equally at home with aged Comté or truffle risotto. While seductive young, it will age effortlessly for 15 to 20 years, gaining layers of spice, truffle and sous-bois complexity.