2023 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne Romanee, Burgundy

Mid ruby purple, this has by some way the classiest nose, and the most energy of fruit on the palate, with the heady and slightly spicy character of Vosne-Romanée. This entirely delivers and will only grow in bottle. More new oak than the other village wines (50%), but less effect because of greater fruit intensity. Drink from 2029-2035. Tasted Nov 2024.

90-92 points Jasper Morris MW insideburgundy.com

Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée from Burgundy is a quintessential expression of one of the world’s most revered villages, combining sensuality, finesse, and intensity in perfect harmony. Crafted by Sébastien Cathiard, one of Burgundy’s most sought-after winemakers, this wine captures the magical perfume and silken texture that define Vosne-Romanée at its finest. It is a pure, unadorned expression of Pinot Noir, shaped by meticulous vineyard work, minimal intervention, and an unwavering dedication to detail.

The grapes are sourced from several small parcels within the village appellation, including old-vine sites that sit just below some of Vosne’s most celebrated Premier Crus. These limestone and clay soils provide natural drainage and impart both minerality and aromatic lift to the fruit. The grapes are hand picked, carefully sorted, and fermented with indigenous yeasts in small open-top vats. Ageing takes place for around 18 months in French oak barrels, approximately one-third new, to build texture and complexity without overshadowing the fruit.

In the glass it gleams a deep ruby red. The aroma is captivating, offering a bouquet of wild strawberry, red cherry, rose petal, spice and subtle hints of sandalwood and forest floor. The palate is medium bodied and impeccably balanced, showing layers of silky red fruit, fine-grained tannins and mineral precision. There is both richness and restraint here, a sense of quiet power that lingers through a long, perfumed finish.

It pairs beautifully with roast duck, mushroom risotto, lamb with herbs or aged Comté cheese. While alluring in its youth for its perfume and texture, it will cellar gracefully for 15 to 20 years, developing complexity and savoury depth as it matures.