2023 Sylvie Esmonin Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy

Darker crimson purple, with a more classic bouquet of deep red fruit. Ripe fruit perfume with some class, and rather more central palate density. Something just a little sweet and horsey behind. Fair acidity. 30% whole bunch vinification. Drink from 2028-2032. Tasted Nov 2024.

89 points Jasper Morris MW Inside Burgundy

Sylvie Esmonin works some of the most quietly impressive holdings in Gevrey Chambertin, including parcels of very old vines that bring both depth and natural balance. Based in the northern end of the Côte de Nuits, her approach is thoughtful and hands on, farming carefully and keeping intervention in the cellar to a minimum so the vineyard speaks clearly. Gevrey here shows its classic character, structure, earth and dark fruit, but with a polish that makes it immediately engaging.

The aromatics lean into the darker side of Pinot Noir, black cherry, plum and wild raspberry layered with violet and a gentle spice note. There is a savoury edge building underneath, hints of forest floor, dried herbs and a touch of game, giving the wine real complexity without heaviness.

On the palate it is medium bodied with fine, firm tannins that give shape and length. The fruit is concentrated yet precise, carried by a line of fresh acidity that keeps everything in balance. Flavours move from dark berries into more savoury territory, finishing with spice, earth and a subtle mineral thread that lingers.

Winemaking is handled with a light touch, often incorporating some whole bunch and careful oak use to build texture and complexity while preserving the purity of the fruit. The result is a wine that feels both classic and detailed, very much in the Gevrey mould but with a refined edge.

This is a natural partner for richer dishes. Duck, roast lamb, or beef with mushrooms all work beautifully, and it also pairs well with earthy flavours that echo the wine’s savoury side.

It can be enjoyed now with a bit of air, but five to ten years in the cellar will see it develop more complexity, with notes of truffle, leather and spice emerging as the structure softens.