2023 Sylvie Esmonin Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques 1er Cru, Burgundy

From a large 1.6 ha holding of 45+ year old vines.

This is also pungently reduced. The sleeker and more powerful flavors flash even more evident minerality that carries over to the dusty, compact and moderately austere finale that exhibits excellent length. Like the old vines Gevrey, my projected range assumes that this will clean up once it's racked and prepared for the bottling.

 91-94 points Burghound, Jan 2025, Drink 2034+ Sweet Spot Outstanding.

60% new wood and whole bunches. Black centre with purple rim. This has real quality, a classic Sylvie Clos St-Jacques, with a lively fruit not picked too late, while the stems add a complexifying factor, but there so also a suave quality to the fruit which extends very agreeably through to a long finish. There is enough red fruit in the mix to lighten the black fruit concentration. Enough juiciness through the middle. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Nov 2024.

94-96 points Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru includes 60% whole bunch and the same level of new oak. I love the aromatics here, which are perhaps more refined and elegant than those of the 2022 last year, with more red fruit and a little more terroir expression coming through. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, slightly powdery in texture with a patina of oak that will assimilate in time. Yes, this is still more precocious in style than, say, Armand Rousseau or Bruno Clair, yet it remains a quite delicious proposition. Drink from 2028-2046. Tasted Jan 2025.

93-95 points Neil Martin vinous.com

Clos Saint Jacques is one of Gevrey Chambertin’s most revered Premier Cru sites, often spoken about in the same breath as Grand Cru vineyards for its consistency and finesse. Sylvie Esmonin farms a prized parcel here, much of it old vine material, and her approach is all about letting this exceptional slope speak, careful vineyard work, low yields and a restrained hand in the cellar.

Set on a perfectly exposed hillside with well drained limestone soils, the vineyard naturally produces wines that combine depth with precision. The aromatics are immediately captivating, red and dark cherry layered with wild strawberry and a touch of plum. There is a beautiful floral lift, rose petal and violet, alongside more complex notes of spice, forest floor and a subtle hint of game that builds with time in the glass.

The palate is where it truly elevates. Medium to full bodied with a seamless, almost weightless texture, yet underpinned by fine, persistent tannins that give it structure and longevity. The fruit is pure and concentrated, carried by a line of fresh acidity that keeps everything poised. Flavours move from vibrant red berries into savoury, mineral territory, finishing long with spice, earth and a refined, stony edge.

Winemaking is thoughtful and traditional, often incorporating a portion of whole bunch and careful oak use to build complexity while preserving the vineyard’s clarity. Nothing feels forced, the wine unfolds naturally, revealing layers over time.

This is a natural partner for refined, flavour driven dishes. Duck, game birds, or lamb with herbs all work beautifully, and it also pairs with mushroom based dishes where the wine’s earthy side can echo the plate.

It will reward patience in a serious way. While impressive with air now, ten to twenty years in the cellar will see it evolve into something truly complex, with notes of truffle, dried rose, spice and forest floor emerging while the structure softens into a seamless whole.