2023 Sylvie Esmonin Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes, Burgundy

The usual exceptionally rich deep imperial purple. Searching for the nose, I find some rather sombre black fruit with a little pepper and spice from the whole bunches (50%). Just a little gamey reduction, then the blacker side of pinot fruit comes through afterwards, with fair length. Drink from 2029-2034. Tasted Nov 2024.

89-91 points Jasper Burgundy Inside Burgundy

From the northern end of the Côte de Nuits, where Gevrey Chambertin delivers some of Burgundy’s most structured and age worthy Pinot Noir, Sylvie Esmonin crafts wines that balance depth with finesse. The domaine, based in Gevrey itself, has a long family history, with Sylvie taking over from her father Michel Esmonin and refining the style with a focus on old vines and minimal intervention.

Vieilles Vignes is drawn from parcels of older vines scattered across the appellation, rooted in classic limestone and clay soils. These mature vines produce naturally lower yields and greater concentration, giving the wine both intensity and complexity while retaining a sense of place.

Deep ruby in colour, the aromatics are both powerful and precise. Dark cherry, blackcurrant and wild strawberry sit alongside violet, spice and a distinct earthy note that speaks to Gevrey’s more muscular side. With time, hints of game, forest floor and subtle oak begin to emerge.

The palate carries that same balance of structure and detail. Dark and red fruits flow through a framework of fine but firm tannins, giving the wine shape and ageing potential. There is a savoury edge, with notes of spice, earth and a touch of minerality building through the mid palate. A line of acidity keeps everything focused, leading into a long, persistent finish.

This is a natural partner for dishes with depth and flavour. Duck, roast lamb, or game birds all work beautifully, as do dishes that bring in earthy elements like mushrooms or truffle.

While it can be enjoyed now with a decant, it will reward patience over ten to fifteen years, developing more tertiary complexity and softening into a beautifully layered expression.

There is a quiet authority here, a Gevrey that speaks clearly of its origins, offering both power and refinement in equal measure.