2023 TarraWarra Estate Barbera, Yarra Valley

Fruit from 35-year-old plus vines. Fermented in foudre and matured in French barrels (10% new). A gorgeous crimson red announces another top notch TarraWarra barbera. With its seductive bouquet of dark cherry, lavender, nutmeg and wood spice, this medium-bodied, tasty, gently wrought and well-balanced wine will look even better 2–3 years from now.

95 points Special Value Philip Rich winecompanion.com.au

TarraWarra Estate Barbera is one of the Yarra Valley’s hidden gems—a bold, vibrant red that reimagines this northern Italian grape through the lens of cool-climate Australian terroir. Planted on north-facing slopes with excellent sunlight exposure and free-draining soils of clay loam over sandstone, the estate’s Barbera vines thrive in the lower Yarra’s long growing season. These conditions allow for slow, even ripening, which is crucial for Barbera’s natural acidity to integrate beautifully with plush fruit and supple tannins.

TarraWarra was among the first serious producers to explore Barbera in the Yarra, and their commitment to site expression shows. The fruit is hand-picked and fermented in small open-top fermenters, often with a portion of whole berries to preserve freshness and aromatics. Maturation takes place in seasoned French oak barriques for around 12 months, offering gentle structure without muting the wine’s energetic character.

In the glass, it bursts with dark cherry, blackberry and black plum, wrapped in layers of violet, crushed herbs, anise and a touch of dark chocolate. There’s a zippy spine of acidity—true to Barbera’s Piedmontese roots—but the texture is softer, rounder, shaped by the Yarra’s cooler climate and thoughtful winemaking. The palate is juicy and medium-bodied, with fine tannins and a savoury finish that brings in notes of black olive and dried thyme.

This wine is incredibly food friendly. It shines with slow-cooked lamb shoulder, duck with balsamic glaze, porcini risotto or a charred radicchio and pancetta salad. It’s also a great match for tomato-based pasta dishes or hard cheeses like pecorino and aged cheddar.

TarraWarra’s Barbera consistently surprises critics and drinkers alike with its vibrancy, complexity and ageing potential. It is an exciting example of what happens when an Italian varietal is grown with precision and respect in Australian soils. It drinks well on release but will reward short to medium-term cellaring over five to seven years.