2023 Te Kairanga Runholder Pinot Noir, Martinborough

Light ruby. Light aromas of sour plum, dried porcini and herbs unfurl across this delicately perfumed nose. The light, crunchy palate is refreshingly crisp with light but pure flavours of cranberry and wild strawberry which give way to a persistent herbal tea note on the light and chalky finish 16 Feb 2025 Drink 2025–2030

91 points Stephen Wong therealreview.com

Te Kairanga Runholder Pinot Noir from Martinborough is a silky, savoury expression of New Zealand Pinot that delivers both finesse and depth. Sourced from the historic Runholder Vineyard—one of the original sites planted in the 1980s—this wine captures the essence of Martinborough’s famed gravels: fine structure, lifted aromatics, and an earthy undertone that speaks clearly of place.

The vineyard is planted on free-draining alluvial soils formed by ancient riverbeds, which are ideal for Pinot Noir. The warm days and cool nights of the region help build concentration while preserving acidity and elegance. Te Kairanga, one of Martinborough’s founding estates, has always focused on site-driven wines, and the Runholder Pinot is crafted to reflect the character of this specific vineyard parcel.

Winemaker John Kavanagh, known for his intuitive approach and focus on detail, guides the fruit from hand harvest through small-batch fermentation using wild yeasts. The wine is matured in French oak barriques, with a portion new, to build structure and gentle spice without overshadowing the purity of the fruit.

On the nose, the wine opens with notes of dark cherry, forest floor, thyme, and subtle oak spice. The palate is supple and finely layered, offering black plum, savoury herbs, and fine-grained tannins that lead into a long, seamless finish. It’s a Pinot Noir that’s at once expressive, restrained, and built to evolve beautifully over time.