2023 Venica & Venica Jesera Pinot Grigio, Collio

Venica & Venica has been rooted in Dolegna del Collio since 1930, when Daniele Venica founded the family estate close to the Slovenian border. Now in its fourth generation, it remains one of the names closely associated with the rise of Collio as a serious white wine region. Jesera is a fine example of why Pinot Grigio from these hills can be a completely different proposition from the simple, neutral styles often associated with the grape.

Jesera takes its name from a small locality within the estate’s vineyards. Collio’s ponca soils, a distinctive mix of marl and sandstone, combine with hillside exposures and cool breezes to give Pinot Grigio both flavour and freshness. A short period of skin contact contributes its characteristic coppery hue and adds subtle texture, taking the wine well beyond straightforward aperitivo territory.

Pale copper pink with a delicate onion skin tint. Ripe pear, white peach and red apple lead into pink grapefruit, orange blossom and a touch of wild strawberry. Fennel, almond skin and gentle spice appear underneath. There is lovely texture through the palate, with juicy pear and citrus balanced by fresh acidity, while grapefruit peel, almond and a lightly saline note provide a dry, savoury finish.

Tuna tataki with sesame and ponzu would be terrific, alongside grilled prawns with chilli and lemon, crab linguine, zucchini flowers with ricotta or Vietnamese rice paper rolls. Our pick is the tuna, served just seared at the edges with plenty of ponzu and spring onion.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2032.