2023 Venica & Venica Talis Pinot Bianco, Collio Friuli-Venezia

Venica & Venica has been part of Collio since 1930, when Daniele Venica established the family estate at Dolegna del Collio, close to the Slovenian border. Four generations later, the family remains closely connected to these beautiful northeastern hills, producing whites that have helped establish Collio as one of Italy’s most exciting regions for aromatic and textural varieties.

Talis is made from Pinot Bianco, a grape that can be wonderfully expressive in Friuli’s cool, hilly vineyards. Collio’s distinctive ponca soils, layers of marl and sandstone, encourage finesse and savoury mineral character, while warm days and cool nights preserve freshness. The 2023 has had a little time to settle, revealing more texture and complexity while retaining the variety’s lovely orchard fruit.

Pale straw gold, opening with Nashi pear, yellow apple and white peach, followed by lemon blossom and grapefruit. Chamomile, fennel and crushed stone add a savoury edge, with almond and a faint waxy note emerging as it warms. The palate is dry and beautifully textured, with pear and citrus at its centre, lively acidity and a subtle creamy quality. Preserved lemon, almond and a salty mineral note linger through the finish.

Hokkaido scallops with browned butter and lemon would be superb, alongside spaghetti alle vongole, grilled prawns with fennel, roast cauliflower with hazelnuts or asparagus risotto with Parmigiano. Our pick is the scallops, keeping the preparation simple and letting the sweet shellfish play against the wine’s citrus and salty edge.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2032.