2023 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc, Southern Rhone

Subtle, elegant and very refined white Chateauneuf-du-Pape. It shows aromas of citrons, pears, wild herbs, fennel and blanched almonds. It's medium-bodied with balance and a refined character throughout. Textural, caressing, precise and silky on the mid-palate. Flavorful and harmonious with a focused finish. Drink or hold.

95 points James Suckling

White Châteauneuf du Pape is a rarer sight, and from Vieux Télégraphe it takes on a more structured, ageworthy form. Sourced from the same stony, wind swept plateau of La Crau, where galets roulés and limestone soils shape the wines, the Brunier family brings the same depth of experience here as they do to their iconic reds. A blend of varieties including Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Roussanne, it is built for texture, complexity and time.

The 2023 vintage opens with a layered and expressive nose. White peach and ripe pear sit alongside citrus zest and a touch of mandarin, with floral notes of honeysuckle and a gentle herbal lift. There is a subtle savoury edge, almond, fennel and a faint stony character that gives it a clear sense of place.

On the palate it is medium to full bodied with a broad, textured feel, but there is structure running through it. Stone fruit and citrus are supported by a line of freshness and a lightly waxy, almost saline edge. As it opens, more savoury notes emerge, nuts, dried herbs and spice, carrying through a long, composed finish.

Winemaking is traditional and restrained, allowing the blend and vineyard to speak, with careful handling to build texture while preserving balance.

This is where you can really stretch things at the table. It works beautifully with lobster or roast chicken, but also shines alongside dishes like saffron infused seafood stew, grilled calamari with preserved lemon, or pork with fennel and citrus. For vegetarian options, try a roasted pumpkin and sage galette, white bean and rosemary stew, or a charred leek and hazelnut dish, the wine’s texture and savoury edge slot straight into those flavours.

It is already impressive, but will evolve over the next eight to twelve years, developing more honeyed, nutty and savoury complexity while holding its structure.