2023 Vieux Telegraphe Telegramme Chateauneuf du Pape, Southern Rhone

Impressive fragrance and freshness are married to deep mulberries and ripe strawberries, and all this is wrapped around an ample tannin structure on the medium-bodied palate. Plenty of drive at the long, quite compact finish.

94-95 points James Suckling

Telegramme is the earlier drinking lens into Vieux Télégraphe, drawn from younger vines and parcels outside the core La Crau plateau, but still shaped by the same Brunier family philosophy. It carries all the hallmarks of Châteauneuf du Pape, sun ripened fruit, garrigue and spice, just in a more open, approachable frame.

The 2023 vintage is bright and expressive. Aromatics lead with red cherry, raspberry and plum, lifted by violet and a dusting of pepper. There is a savoury Rhône thread running through it, thyme, rosemary and dried herbs, with a touch of earth that adds depth without heaviness.

On the palate it sits in that medium to full bodied range, with supple tannins and a juicy core of fruit that makes it immediately appealing. A line of freshness keeps everything in balance, carrying the wine through to a finish that brings together red fruit, spice and a gentle herbal edge.

Winemaking is handled with a light touch, aiming to preserve vibrancy and drinkability while still reflecting the character of the region.

This is where it really opens up. Think grilled lamb flatbreads with sumac and yoghurt, pork skewers with chilli and garlic, or a wood fired pizza with nduja and roasted capsicum. It also works brilliantly with more adventurous vegetarian dishes, charred broccoli with tahini and lemon, smoky lentil and paprika stew, or roasted pumpkin with harissa and herbs, the wine’s fruit and spice lock in effortlessly.

Already drinking with plenty of charm, it will continue to evolve over the next five to eight years, gaining a little more savoury complexity while holding its energy.