2023 Vieux Telegraphe Châteauneuf du Pape La Crau, Southern Rhone

In spite of its extreme youth, this great Chateuneuf-du-Pape leaps out at you with its depth of wet-earth, ripe red-berry and dried-flower aromas. Rich and concentrated, but so suave and refined. Incredible length! Already delicous, but this has a great future ahead of it. Drink or hold.

98 points James Suckling

From the stony plateau of La Crau, one of Châteauneuf du Pape’s most iconic lieux dits, this is a wine that has defined the region for generations. The Brunier family has been farming here since the late 1800s, working those famous galets roulés that store heat by day and release it slowly at night, building depth while the mistral keeps the vines healthy and the fruit clean. It is a site that delivers power, but always with a strong mineral backbone.

The 2023 vintage shows both generosity and control. Aromatics are deep and layered, black cherry, plum and blackberry with a lift of violet. There is a strong thread of garrigue, thyme, rosemary and dried herbs, alongside notes of pepper, spice and a subtle earthy, stony character that speaks directly of La Crau.

On the palate it is full bodied yet composed, with dense, finely structured tannins giving the wine real presence. The fruit is rich but not heavy, carried by a line of freshness that keeps everything in balance. Flavours move into more savoury territory, dried herbs, spice, olive and a faint mineral grip, finishing long and persistent.

Winemaking remains traditional and measured, allowing the vineyard to lead while oak plays a supporting role, shaping the wine without masking its identity. The result is a Châteauneuf du Pape that feels both powerful and grounded, a true expression of site.

This is where you can step outside the usual pairings. Think slow cooked lamb with black olives and anchovy, but also dishes like duck with tamarind glaze, grilled octopus with smoked paprika, or even a rich tomato and saffron rice with caramelised onions. For vegetarian options, try a smoky eggplant and chickpea stew, roasted cauliflower with ras el hanout, or a lentil and olive dish with plenty of herbs, the wine’s savoury depth and spice tie in beautifully.

Built to age, this will evolve over the next fifteen to twenty years, developing layers of leather, spice, dried herbs and earthy complexity while holding its structure.