2023 Vincent Girardin Chassagne Montrachet Vieilles Vignes, Burgundy

From Les Fairendes, vines managed by the Vincent Girardin team. Elegant by Morgeot standards, but then it is from Fairendes, all in white fruit, not massive and not overly sunny, very well managed Drink from 2029-2034. Tasted Oct 2024

91-94 points Jasper Morris MW Inside Burgundy

Drawn from older vines across Chassagne Montrachet, this Vieilles Vignes bottling brings a bit more depth and concentration while still holding that classic village tension. Vincent Girardin’s move toward a more terroir focused, restrained style really suits this level, letting the vineyard character come through with clarity rather than weight.

The 2023 vintage is expressive but well controlled. Aromatics open with white peach, nectarine and pear, layered with lemon zest and a touch of grapefruit for lift. There is a subtle savoury layer, toasted almond, hazelnut and a hint of spice, with a faint flinty edge that ties everything together.

On the palate it is medium to full bodied with a smooth, layered texture, but there is a firm line of acidity running through it. Stone fruit sits at the core, supported by well judged oak that adds depth and a gentle warmth without dominating. The finish is long and composed, with a lightly savoury, nutty edge and a clean mineral line that tightens things up.

Girardin’s winemaking is measured and precise, careful pressing and thoughtful élevage allowing the old vine character to show while keeping the wine balanced.

This is a brilliant match for seafood with a bit of richness. Think grilled lobster with lemon butter, seared scallops, or a whole roast fish with fennel and herbs. It also works beautifully with dishes like crab linguine, prawn and saffron risotto, or even crispy potatoes with garlic and rosemary, where the wine’s texture and acidity keep everything in line.

Drinking beautifully now, it will continue to evolve over the next eight to twelve years, gaining more complexity while holding its structure.