2023 Vincent Girardin Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes, Burgundy

A fresh pale primrose. This is a little bit fleshier but there is also a fine refreshing mineral acidity at the back and good persistence. Eric thinks that their holding is in the best spot by the woods. Clonal vines keep it on the skinnier side, which is no bad thing in these warmer times. Tasted Oct 2024.

90-93 points Jasper Morris MW Inside Burgundy

Just below Meursault, Les Combettes often carries a little more generosity than the tighter Puligny sites, but in the right hands it still keeps that signature line and precision. Vincent Girardin has shifted toward a more terroir focused, restrained style in recent years, and this Premier Cru shows a beautiful balance between richness and tension.

The 2023 vintage is expressive yet finely detailed. Aromatics open with white peach, nectarine and lemon zest, layered with a touch of grapefruit that brings freshness. There is a subtle floral lift and a gentle savoury note, almond, hazelnut and a hint of spice, with a faint flinty edge tying it all together.

On the palate it is medium to full bodied with a seamless, silky texture, but there is a clear line of acidity that keeps the wine focused. Stone fruit sits at the core, supported by citrus and a well judged use of oak that adds depth without weight. The finish is long and refined, with a mineral line and a lightly savoury, nutty edge that lingers.

Girardin’s winemaking is all about control and clarity, careful pressing, restrained élevage and a light touch that allows the vineyard character to shine.

This is a brilliant match for seafood with both delicacy and richness. Think grilled lobster with lemon butter, seared scallops, or a whole roast fish with herbs. It also works beautifully with dishes like crab linguine, a prawn and saffron risotto, or even a simple roast chicken, where the wine’s texture and acidity keep everything in balance.

Drinking beautifully now with some air, it will continue to evolve over the next ten to fifteen years, gaining more complexity while holding its shape.