2023 Vincent Girardin Pommard Les Epenots 1er Cru, Burgundy

Purchased fruit, half as grapes and half as wine, almost entirely from Grands Epenots. All destemmed. Glowing purple and a very lively fruit on the nose, much more noble than the Beaune. I have known Epenots of greater scale but this is really well put together, plenty of energy to the dark fruit and a fine long finish. Drink from 2029-2034. Tasted Oct 2024.

92-94 points Jasper Morris MW Inside Burgundy

From one of Pommard’s most prized Premier Cru sites, Les Epenots sits on iron rich clay and limestone that gives Pinot Noir both depth and a firm structural frame. Vincent Girardin’s more restrained, terroir focused approach suits it well, drawing out the power of the site while keeping the wine composed and detailed.

The 2023 vintage shows both intensity and lift. Aromatics open with black cherry, raspberry and a darker edge of plum, layered with violet and a touch of rose. There is a strong savoury thread, spice, earth and a hint of forest floor, with subtle oak adding warmth and complexity.

On the palate it is medium to full bodied with fine but assertive tannins that give the wine real shape. The fruit is concentrated and layered, supported by a line of freshness that keeps everything balanced. Flavours move into deeper savoury territory, spice, dried herbs and a faint mineral edge, finishing long with a firm, structured feel.

Girardin’s winemaking is controlled and precise, careful extraction and thoughtful élevage allowing the vineyard’s character to come through without excess.

This is a wine that really comes into its own with food. Think duck with cherry and spice, slow cooked beef with herbs, or even charred lamb with rosemary. It also handles more robust vegetarian dishes like mushroom and black garlic, lentil and root vegetable stew, or a roasted beetroot and walnut dish, where the wine’s structure and savoury depth stand up beautifully.

Still youthful and structured, it benefits from a bit of air now and will continue to evolve over the next ten to fifteen years, developing more earthy, complex layers while softening into a more seamless whole.