2023 Welkin by Aphelion Grenache, McLaren Vale

Sourced from a range of Vale sites, this is at the ‘vin de soif’ end of the Aphelion grenache roster. Grenache in this zone can be juicy and jubey, but not this. It’s a thread that runs through the Welkin range, with fruitful pleasure in a mid-weight zone tempered by savoury structure. Macerated strawberries and tart raspberries, redcurrant, red licorice, rhubarb and orange, pink peppercorn and a seasoning of dusty spice. It’s bright and lithe, savoury and zippy – a fine all-rounder at table that can take a gentle chill.

92 points Special Value Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au

Raspberry frog, spiced strawberries, something like iron filings to smell, and a pumice stone texture as it continues. It’s fresh, lively, has grip and interest, and finishes chalky and pretty long, with a sort of rosy and cool minty perfume as it goes. Lovely drink. Excellent.