2023 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese #5, Mosel

The 2023 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese #5 is intense and dense on the nose that shows super ripe and partly overripe tropical (mango) fruit yet less of the finesse of the Domprobst slate, at least at this early stage. On the palate, however, comes the energy and stimulating phenolic bite of the Domprobst, paired with a generously lush texture. The acidity is savory yet not as fine and playful as the Spätlese #10, but the wine has substance, length and complexity. Some prefer the #10, while others might opt for this one. It should be interesting to taste both wines again after 10 years. 7.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in August 2024.

97 points Robert Parker

Graacher Domprobst is one of the Mosel’s great vineyards, a steep amphitheatre of blue Devonian slate that consistently delivers wines of finesse and longevity. At Willi Schaefer, this site is handled with remarkable care, tiny harvests, multiple passes through the vineyard and a deeply traditional approach in the cellar. Christoph Schaefer continues the family’s legacy of crafting Rieslings that are all about precision, balance and a clear sense of place. The #5 AP selection reflects a specific lot within the Spätlese, often highlighting a particular balance of ripeness and freshness.

The 2023 vintage shows both generosity and lift. Aromatics open with ripe peach, nectarine and mandarin, layered with lime zest that keeps everything bright. There is a delicate floral note, honeysuckle and white blossom, alongside that unmistakable slate character, cool, stony and slightly smoky.

On the palate it sits in that beautiful Spätlese sweet spot, more depth and ripeness than Kabinett, but still carried by vibrant acidity that keeps it light on its feet. The fruit feels pure and flowing, stone fruit and citrus unfolding across the palate, while the acidity gives shape and energy. The finish is long and finely detailed, with a mineral line and a gentle sweetness that lingers without heaviness.

Winemaking is entirely traditional, hand harvesting, spontaneous fermentation and slow development allowing the wine to find its natural balance. Nothing feels forced, it is all about transparency and finesse.

This is a brilliant partner for dishes that play with spice or richness. Thai and Vietnamese flavours work beautifully, as do pork dishes, duck or lightly spiced seafood. It also has the balance to be enjoyed on its own.

It will age effortlessly. Fifteen to twenty five years will see it evolve into something more complex, with notes of honey, dried citrus, spice and a deeper mineral character emerging while retaining its freshness.