2023 Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett, Mosel

Graacher Himmelreich is one of those Mosel vineyards that seems tailor made for Kabinett, steep blue slate, perfect exposure and a natural ability to deliver wines of lift and precision. At Willi Schaefer, now in the hands of Christoph Schaefer, the approach remains beautifully traditional, tiny yields, multiple passes through the vineyard and a patient, low intervention style in the cellar that allows the site to speak with remarkable clarity.

The 2023 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett opens with substantial depth and a brilliant bouquet of wet slate. The fruit is intense but not dominating, thanks to the flintiness and savoriness of the Himmelreich terroir. On the palate, this is a mouth-filling, dense and complex Kabinett with ripe, elegant and juicy fruit intertwined with very fine phenols and an ethereal slate thread that gives this Kabinett an enormous length and animation. This will be a superb gastronomic wine after a decade of bottle age, although the 2023 already drinks beautifully today. 7.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in August 2024 from AP 2 24.(SR)

96 points The Wine Advocate

The 2023 Kabinett is all about purity and energy. Aromatics are finely etched, lime zest and green apple leading, with white peach and a gentle floral lift sitting just behind. There is a clear slate signature, cool, stony and slightly smoky, giving the wine both structure and a strong sense of place.

On the palate it is incredibly light on its feet, yet packed with flavour. A touch of sweetness is perfectly balanced by vibrant, racy acidity, creating that classic Mosel interplay that feels almost weightless. Citrus and orchard fruit glide across the palate, finishing long and precise with a refreshing mineral edge and a gentle, mouth watering sweetness.

Winemaking is as hands off as it comes, spontaneous fermentations and slow development preserving both the aromatics and the natural balance of the wine. Nothing feels forced, it is all about finesse and transparency.

This is a brilliant food wine, especially with dishes that carry a bit of spice or freshness. Asian cuisine, pork, seafood or even lighter salads all work beautifully, and it is just as enjoyable on its own.

It will age gracefully for fifteen to twenty years, gaining more honeyed and savoury complexity while retaining its signature lift and freshness.