2023 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett, Mosel

Enormous power and spiciness are compressed into the sleek silhouette of this super-elegant riesling Kabinett. The aromas need further bottle aging to fully unfurl, but the precision and harmony are already breathtaking. Then comes the extraordinary wet stone and wild herb complexity in the extremely long finish. Expands spectacularly in the glass. Drinkable now, but best from 2026.

97 points James Suckling

Graacher Domprobst is one of the Mosel’s most revered vineyards, a steep, sun catching slope of blue Devonian slate that consistently delivers Rieslings with both depth and finesse. At Willi Schaefer, this site is handled with extraordinary care, multiple selective passes through the vineyard, tiny yields and a traditional, hands off approach in the cellar. Under Christoph Schaefer, the wines remain some of the most precise and transparent expressions of Mosel Riesling.

The 2023 Kabinett shows a beautiful sense of poise. Aromatics are finely layered, lime zest and green apple at the core, with white peach and a hint of mandarin adding a touch of ripeness. There is a delicate floral lift, alongside that signature slate character, cool, stony and faintly smoky.

On the palate it is all about balance and energy. Light bodied but intensely flavoured, the fruit feels almost weightless, carried by vibrant acidity that gives the wine incredible lift. Citrus and orchard fruit glide across the palate, with a subtle sweetness perfectly offset by a crisp, mineral line. The finish is long, clean and mouth watering, leaving a gentle echo of citrus and slate.

Winemaking remains deeply traditional, spontaneous fermentation and slow, patient development allowing the wine to find its natural equilibrium. The result is a Kabinett that feels effortless yet incredibly detailed, a pure expression of both vineyard and vintage.

This is a brilliant partner for dishes with a bit of spice or contrast. Thai, Vietnamese or lightly spiced pork dishes all work beautifully, as do fresh seafood and lighter plates where the wine’s acidity can shine.

It will age beautifully for fifteen to twenty years, gaining layers of honey, spice and savoury complexity while holding onto its defining freshness.