2023 Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese, Mosel

Schaefer's 2023 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese is very clear and intense yet also precise and flinty on the bright and well-defined nose that is intense without being bold and is characterized by its perfectly ripe and elegant fruit and delicate slate aroma. Lush and savory on the palate, this is a very intense, utterly mineral and mouthwatering Spätlese with great energy and tension, enormous length and salivating complexity. This is an adorable and age-worthy showstopper and a milestone Himmelreich for Andrea and Christoph Schaefer. 7.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in August 2024 from AP 8 24.

99 points Robert Parker

This smells like the essence of ripe lemons with a thread of red currants running through it. So vibrant and so elegant on the barely medium-bodied, crystalline palate. The purity and brilliance are stunning. Glacial meltwater and Amalfi lemon freshness in the finish. Drink or hold.

96 points James Suckling

Graacher Himmelreich is one of those Mosel vineyards that seems to capture lightness and depth at the same time, and in the hands of Willi Schaefer it becomes something truly special. This small, family run estate, now led by Christoph Schaefer, has built a near mythical reputation for Rieslings that are all about finesse, purity and an almost weightless sense of balance. Steep blue slate slopes, meticulous hand picking and a deeply traditional approach in the cellar all come together here.

The 2023 Spätlese has drawn serious praise, and it is easy to see why. Aromatically it is beautifully poised, ripe peach and nectarine layered with mandarin and lime zest, giving both richness and lift. There is a delicate floral thread, white blossom and honeysuckle, alongside that unmistakable slate signature, cool, stony and faintly smoky. Everything feels finely detailed rather than overt.

On the palate it is pure Mosel magic. There is a gentle sweetness, but it feels almost weightless, carried by vibrant acidity that gives the wine incredible energy. Stone fruit and citrus glide across the palate, unfolding slowly, with a crystalline clarity that keeps every element in focus. The finish is long and precise, with a mineral line and a soft, lingering sweetness that never feels heavy.

Winemaking remains as traditional as it gets, spontaneous ferments, slow, patient élevage and minimal intervention, allowing the vineyard to speak without interference. The result is a Spätlese that feels effortless yet incredibly complex, a wine that seems to float rather than sit on the palate.

This is a brilliant partner for dishes that play on contrast. Thai and Vietnamese flavours, duck, pork or lightly spiced seafood all work beautifully, and it is just as compelling on its own when given time to open and evolve in the glass.

There is no hurry here. It will drink beautifully now, but over the next twenty years it will deepen and evolve, developing layers of honey, spice and dried citrus while holding onto that signature lift and minerality that defines both the vineyard and the producer.

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