2023 William Fevre Montee de Tonnerre Chablis Premier Cru Magnum 1.5L, Burgundy

The 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre unites a solar personality of the year with tension, delivering aromas of beeswax, pear, orange peel and fennel, mingling with oyster liquor. Medium- to full-bodied, the palate is tangy and textural, with considerable depth and a long, saline finish.

93 points robertparker.com

Lemon and lime in colour with a concentrated sunny but not exotic nose, plums not peaches. This embryonic Chablis tightens up quite considerably on the palate, reinforcing the sense of notable intensity. A light marmalade note that is not unpleasant infuses the finish. Drink from 2027-2034. Tasted Jun 2024.

91-94 points Jasper Morris MW insideburgundy.com

Montée de Tonnerre is widely regarded as one of the most prestigious Premier Cru vineyards in Chablis, often spoken of in the same breath as the Grand Crus that sit just across the valley. The slope faces south west and rests on classic Kimmeridgian limestone soils rich in ancient marine fossils, the geological foundation that gives Chablis its unmistakable mineral signature. Domaine William Fèvre has long been one of the region’s great custodians, established in 1959 and now holding an exceptional collection of Premier Cru and Grand Cru sites. Under winemaker Didier Séguier the focus remains firmly on vineyard expression, with careful farming and restrained oak use ensuring that the purity of the Chardonnay and the character of Montée de Tonnerre shine through.

The wine shows a pale gold colour with flashes of green at the rim. Aromas lift with lemon zest, green apple and white peach layered with white flowers, flint and a distinct oyster shell minerality. With time in the glass subtle notes of almond, brioche and gentle spice begin to unfold. The palate is vibrant and finely structured with bright acidity carrying flavours of citrus, crisp orchard fruit and chalky mineral tension. There is impressive concentration balanced by freshness, leading to a long saline finish that lingers with remarkable clarity. This outstanding Premier Cru will age beautifully for fifteen years or more and pairs superbly with oysters, lobster, scallops, grilled fish or refined seafood dishes.