2023 William Fevre Montmains Chablis Premier Cru, Burgundy

Sourced from a large 3.8-hectare south- and southeast-facing site, where individual parcels are harvested and vinified separately, the 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains reveals aromas of Granny Smith apple, jasmine, pear and oyster shell. Medium- to full-bodied, the palate is taut and racy, concluding with a saline finish.

91 points robertparker.com

Assembled earlier today, so cloudy and this procedure also masks the nose. Classic Montmains behind, with the usual reductive grip, yet also some elegance, very persistent. The lees were first class, says Didier Seguier and this certainly has the makings of a first class Montmains. Drink from 2027-2034. Tasted Jun 2024.

91-94 points Jasper Morris MW insideburgundy.com

Montmains sits on the cooler left bank of the Serein River and is known for producing some of the most precise and mineral driven Premier Cru Chablis. The vineyard’s Kimmeridgian limestone soils, filled with ancient marine fossils, give the wines their distinctive chalky tension and saline freshness. Domaine William Fèvre has been one of the defining names of Chablis since its founding in 1959, assembling one of the largest holdings of Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards in the region. Today the estate is guided by winemaker Didier Séguier, who emphasises careful vineyard work and gentle cellar practices to allow each site to express its unique personality while preserving the purity of Chardonnay.

The wine shows a pale gold colour with green highlights that hint at its freshness. Aromas are lifted and elegant with lemon zest, green apple and white peach layered with white blossom, flint and a subtle oyster shell character. With time in the glass gentle notes of almond and brioche add complexity. The palate is vibrant and finely structured, carrying flavours of citrus, crisp orchard fruit and chalky minerality framed by bright acidity. Montmains is known for its precision and tension, and those qualities carry through to a long, clean finish that reflects the cool limestone soils of Chablis.

It will age gracefully for ten to fifteen years and pairs beautifully with oysters, grilled prawns, crab, fresh seafood platters or delicate fish dishes.