2023 William Fevre Vaudésir Chablis Grand Cru, Burgundy

Sourced from a rather sunny, precocious site, the flamboyant 2023 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir opens with aromas of ripe citrus fruit, pear, peach and dried flowers. Full-bodied, the palate is giving yet precise, layered and underpinned by fine tension, with a fleshy core of fruit and a long, saline finish.

94+ points robertparker.com

Pale in colour but very vinous on the nose, excellent grip. A chalky grip behind the sunshine. Salinity here more than in the Bougros, with an extra wave of intense flavour, still with a bit of the confit de citron which denotes the sunshine. Drink from 2029-2038. Tasted Jun 2024.

92-95 points Jasper Morris MW insideburgundy.com

Graceful and finely sculpted, Vaudésir sits at the heart of the Chablis Grand Cru hillside overlooking the Serein River. The amphitheatre shaped vineyard benefits from a range of exposures, allowing Chardonnay to ripen slowly while retaining the striking mineral tension that defines the region. Domaine William Fèvre has been one of the great custodians of Chablis since the estate was founded in 1959 and today holds an exceptional collection of Grand Cru vineyards. Under the direction of winemaker Didier Séguier the focus remains on sustainable vineyard practices and careful cellar work that allows the individuality of each site to shine through. Vaudésir is often considered one of the most elegant of the Grand Crus, known for its finesse and aromatic complexity.

The wine shows a pale gold colour with luminous clarity. Aromas lift with lemon zest, green apple and white peach layered with white blossom, crushed oyster shell and flinty minerality. As the wine opens further notes of almond, hazelnut and subtle brioche begin to appear, adding depth while preserving the purity of fruit. The palate is vibrant and beautifully balanced with flavours of citrus and orchard fruit supported by bright acidity and a chalky mineral backbone drawn from the Kimmeridgian soils. There is both concentration and grace here, finishing long and saline with remarkable precision.

This Grand Cru will continue to evolve for twenty years or more and pairs wonderfully with lobster, scallops, turbot, oysters or refined seafood dishes.