2023 Xanadu Reserve Chardonnay, Margaret River

The ’23 vintage is turning out to be a very special one in Margaret River both with chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon, but let’s stay with the former here. This is a humdinger. Sure it’s tightly wound, given its youth and all the electrifying acidity within, but there’s substance and depth, too. A little waxy, refined, with grapefruit, lemon, ginger spice, a dash of oak spices (the 20% new French oak superbly integrated) and a little yuzu tonic water pucker. It’s linear, long, with moreish sulphides, the merest hint of creamy lees and almost a savoury overlay. Brilliant.

97 points Jane Faulkner winecompanion.com.au

Xanadu Reserve Chardonnay is one of Margaret River’s quiet overachievers, a wine that consistently punches well above its weight by leaning into site, season and restraint rather than excess. The fruit comes from carefully selected estate vineyards across the region, where gravelly loams over clay sit close to the Indian Ocean, bringing cooling sea breezes and a long, even ripening period. It is classic Margaret River terroir, built for Chardonnay of line, texture and longevity.

Xanadu has been part of the region’s fabric since 1977 and today the wines are shaped by winemaker Glenn Goodall, whose background spans both Australia and Europe. His approach to Chardonnay is all about balance. Wild ferment, thoughtful use of French oak and plenty of time on lees to build complexity, but always with freshness front and centre. The Reserve bottling represents the best parcels and the most complete expression of the vintage.

The wine opens with white peach, nectarine and citrus, layered with subtle struck match, cashew and a hint of brioche. There is real drive here, with natural acidity carrying the fruit and oak seamlessly. The texture is creamy without being heavy, finishing long and saline, a nod to the coastal influence that defines the region.

At the table, this is a natural with roast chicken, grilled lobster, seared scallops or richer vegetable dishes like pumpkin or cauliflower. It also rewards patience, comfortably cellaring for ten years or more as it develops greater savoury depth and complexity. This is Margaret River Chardonnay done with confidence and clarity, polished but never overworked.