2023 Yangarra Estate Old Vine Grenache, McLaren Vale

From the estate’s 1946-planted bush vines. Half whole berries, half crushed, with gentle pump overs and extended maceration on some parcels up to seven months; matured in older French puncheons, foudre, ceramic eggs and amphorae. This is quite a different wine to the 2022. That’s a tale of two seasons. Both cool, but the buttress of natural tannin in the 2022 is commanding and it is more compressed, needing time. This is prettily lifted, with cherry, cranberry, rosehip, dried orange peel, wild raspberry and red florals. It’s a gloriously fine and elegant expression of this cuvée, but it has tannic drive, line and length, savouriness, flavour depth and detail. Excellent.

96 points Special Value Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au

Yangarra Estate Old Vine Grenache from McLaren Vale is a benchmark expression of the variety in Australia, sourced from bush vines planted as far back as 1946 in the sandy soils of Blewitt Springs. This elevated subregion of McLaren Vale is renowned for producing perfumed, medium-bodied Grenache with fine tannins and mineral drive, and Yangarra has become one of its greatest champions.

The estate is certified biodynamic and farmed with an unwavering focus on soil health, biodiversity and minimal intervention. Winemaker Peter Fraser has earned widespread acclaim for elevating McLaren Vale Grenache to the same level of prestige as the region’s top Shiraz, crafting wines that are both elegant and age-worthy.

The Old Vine Grenache is made entirely from handpicked fruit, fermented with indigenous yeasts and a portion of whole bunches to enhance fragrance and structure. Maturation takes place in a mix of older French oak puncheons, foudres and ceramic eggs, which preserve the wine’s brightness and textural finesse without adding overt oak flavour.

In the glass, it shows a translucent ruby hue with lifted aromas of raspberry, red cherry, pomegranate, rose petal and orange zest, interwoven with hints of dried herbs and white pepper. The palate is medium-bodied, silky and pure, with juicy red fruits framed by fine, sandy tannins and a long, savoury finish. There’s a balance of perfume, fruit brightness and gentle earthiness that makes it both charming young and compelling with age.

It is outstanding with roast duck and plum glaze, lamb shoulder with Moroccan spices, or grilled eggplant with tahini and pomegranate. While delicious on release, it will reward cellaring for 8 to 12 years, developing more spice, game and savoury depth over time.