2023 Yangarra Roux Beaute Roussanne, McLaren Vale

Predominantly from the oldest roussanne planting, a 1ha block, with a small parcel (15%) from younger vines for fragrance. The compression of power is becoming a key feature of what is one of Australia’s finest white wines. It’s refreshing to see the varietal hegemony of the usual suspects being consistently challenged. This, from a celebrated cool year, is at the start of a long and promising journey, somewhat shy, but layered with interest. Green almond, pear, pickled peach, pineapple quince, lemon balm, mint, young sage, oyster shell and a rocky, pumice-like mineral note, which is echoed by the ultrafine pithiness of the palate. It’s another superb release, but it’s one that needs a little time to settle into its long stride.

97 points Special Value Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au

The Yangarra Roux Beauté Roussanne is one of the most distinctive and acclaimed white wines to come out of McLaren Vale in recent years. Certified biodynamic and sourced entirely from Yangarra’s estate vineyards in Blewitt Springs, it is a benchmark Australian example of Roussanne — a Rhône variety that thrives in the region’s sandy soils, elevated sites and maritime-influenced climate. This release has already attracted critical attention, cementing its reputation as an award-winning and highly individual wine.

Yangarra’s vineyards are farmed under the biodynamic principles championed by winemaker Peter Fraser, whose meticulous attention to soil health, vine balance and low-intervention winemaking has earned the estate both local and international acclaim. Roussanne is notoriously tricky to grow, but in Blewitt Springs’ deep sands and with Fraser’s patient, detail-focused viticulture, the variety delivers fruit of exceptional flavour concentration and natural acidity.

Fruit for the Roux Beauté was handpicked and whole-bunch pressed, then fermented in a combination of ceramic eggs, large-format French oak and amphora to build complexity and texture without overpowering the purity of the fruit. Extended time on lees, with occasional bâtonnage, has given the wine a subtle creaminess and layered mouthfeel, while retaining the lifted aromatics and fresh line that define great Roussanne.

Pale gold with aromas of quince, ripe pear, lemon curd, chamomile, almond and a delicate hint of honeysuckle. The palate is medium-bodied yet textural, weaving together flavours of white peach, citrus oil, toasted almond and a gentle savoury spice. The finish is long, nutty and saline, speaking directly of its Blewitt Springs terroir. Its balance of richness and energy makes it compelling now, yet it has the structure to develop beautifully over the next 8 to 10 years.

This is a wine for serious food pairings — think pan-seared scallops with cauliflower purée, roast chicken with preserved lemon and thyme, or grilled swordfish with almond and herb salsa. It is equally at home alongside rich vegetarian dishes like pumpkin and sage ravioli or roasted celeriac with hazelnut dressing.