2023 Yarra Yering Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley

Made from MV6 and an old clone from Great Western planted between ’69 and ’74. Fully destemmed and 38% new oak. A bright ruby red. Old vines, low yields and a cool year have produced another terrific Yeringberg pinot. Gently meaty with aromas of black cherry, blueberry, brown spices and lightly crushed violets. Concentrated, structured and long, this kept opening up with air, meaning that, while it can be approached now, you really want to have a bottle or three when it begins to hit its peak over the next five to 10 years plus.

96 points Philip Rich winecompanion.com.au

Yarra Yering Pinot Noir is a quietly serious expression of Yarra Valley Pinot Noir that leans into restraint, structure and longevity rather than immediate sweetness. The vineyards sit on ancient, low fertility soils close to the valley floor, where a combination of moderate elevation, cool nights and long growing seasons allows Pinot Noir to ripen slowly and evenly. The result is a wine that favours savoury detail, fine tannin and natural balance over overt fruit richness.

Yarra Yering is one of the great founding estates of the Yarra Valley, established in 1969 by the late Dr Bailey Carrodus. From the very beginning, the focus was on site expression and wines built to age. That philosophy continues today, with Pinot Noir made in a traditional, unforced style that respects vineyard character and avoids excess. The approach is deliberate and patient, producing wines that reveal more with time rather than shouting on release.

In the glass, the wine is nuanced and evolving. Red cherry, cranberry and wild strawberry sit at the core, but they are quickly joined by savoury notes of dried herbs, forest floor and subtle spice. With air, hints of rose petal, tea leaf and gentle earthiness emerge, adding layers of complexity. The palate is medium bodied and finely structured, with bright acidity and very fine, powdery tannins giving shape and length. Fruit, savoury elements and texture are held in beautiful balance, finishing long, dry and composed.

This is a Pinot Noir that truly shines at the table. Roast duck, quail, mushroom dishes, pork with herbs or lighter game are all excellent matches. While it can be enjoyed now with decanting, Yarra Yering Pinot Noir is clearly built for the cellar and will evolve gracefully over ten to fifteen years, developing deeper savoury and tertiary characters while retaining its freshness and poise.

Yarra Yering Pinot Noir is understated, refined and deeply expressive of place. It is a wine for those who appreciate nuance, patience and the more classical side of Yarra Valley Pinot.