2024 Apogee Alto Pinot Gris, Pipers River

Constantly one of the best examples of pinot gris to come from Tasmania. Light, brilliant straw in the glass with lifted notes of poached pear, spiced apple and citrus fruits with hints of crushed stone, jasmine, dried rose petals, almond paste, clover blossom and newly sliced fennel. The palate is a wonderful journey of texture and tension, savoury and dry with a glutamic umami swell and a bright mineral cadence throughout. Superb.

95 points Special Value Dave Brookes winecompanion.com.au

Apogee Alto Pinot Gris from Pipers River in northern Tasmania is a refined and aromatic cool climate white that perfectly reflects the elegance and precision of winemaker Andrew Pirie, one of Australia’s true wine pioneers. The Apogee vineyard sits in a sheltered amphitheatre near the coast, where maritime breezes and long daylight hours create pristine fruit with delicate perfume, natural acidity and a distinctive mineral tension. The name “Alto” refers to the vineyard’s elevated position and the purity that altitude brings to the wine’s flavour profile.

The grapes are hand picked and whole bunch pressed, with fermentation taking place mainly in stainless steel to preserve vibrancy, and a small portion in seasoned oak for texture and roundness. The wine spends time on lees to build mid-palate weight and creaminess while maintaining the crispness that defines the Pipers River region.

In the glass it shines pale straw with silver hues. The aroma is floral and enticing, with pear, apple blossom, jasmine and hints of citrus zest and almond. On the palate it is pure and finely textured, showing layers of pear, nectarine and lemon peel framed by taut acidity and a chalky mineral edge. The finish is long and graceful, with a touch of savoury spice and a lingering sense of freshness.

Apogee Alto Pinot Gris pairs beautifully with seared scallops, grilled fish, chicken with herbs, or creamy pasta with mushrooms. It also complements Asian-inspired dishes or mild cheeses. Delicious now for its vibrancy and purity, it will evolve gracefully over the next five years, developing subtle honeyed and nutty complexity.