2024 Ashbrook Estate Chardonnay, Margaret River

Ashbrook has put a lot of time and energy into elevating its chardonnays, and it's certainly paying dividends with another excellent wine from a season which, despite the heat, produced some first-rate chardonnays. There are plenty of tropical fruit characters here with hints of lemon rind and fresh quince, and then the palate integrates the oak and fruit perfectly, harnessing a sustained finish.

93 points rayjordanwine.com.au

Ashbrook Estate is one of Margaret River’s quietly historic family vineyards, planted in 1975 in the heart of Wilyabrup by the Devitt family. What began as a mixed farming property evolved into a respected estate, and in recent years the wines have undergone a remarkable refinement. Today the winery is guided by the next generation, with a renewed focus on precision viticulture, lower yields and sensitive winemaking that has lifted the quality to another level. The transformation has been evident in the Chardonnay, which now shows greater tension, purity and structural detail.

The vineyard sits on classic Wilyabrup gravelly loam over clay, moderated by Indian Ocean breezes that extend ripening and preserve natural acidity. Fruit is harvested with close attention to flavour and phenolic balance. Whole bunch pressing protects delicacy, fermentation includes a portion in French oak to build texture, and extended lees contact adds subtle creaminess. Oak is used judiciously, supporting rather than dominating. The philosophy has shifted toward restraint and vineyard expression, resulting in a more refined, modern Margaret River style.

Pale gold in colour, the aromas open with white peach, lemon curd and grapefruit layered with cashew, flint and subtle spice. The palate is medium bodied and tightly framed, with citrus and stone fruit carried by bright acidity and a chalk edged texture. Flavours unfold with clarity, finishing long and mineral with a quiet savoury depth.

It pairs beautifully with grilled seafood, roast chicken and butter based sauces. Already impressive for its balance and lift, it will cellar confidently for ten to twelve years, developing nutty and complex tertiary notes.

This is Ashbrook Estate Chardonnay in its new era, refined, textural and a clear step forward in quality.