2024 Astrolabe Pinot Gris, Marlborough

Showing some restraint to the floral, crisp pear and quince flavours, this light and airy pinot gris is just off-dry, given structure by fine, powdery phenolics which dry to white pepper. Subtle, savoury lees influence in the tarte tatin spectrum provide texture for the taut, saline acidity. Lovely balance in a light-weight, elegant and crisp package which will gain more complexity in the near-term 10 Feb 2025 Drink 2025–2030

91 points Stephen Wong therealreview.com

Astrolabe, founded by winemaker Simon Waghorn in 1996, has built a reputation for crafting expressive, site-focused wines from across Marlborough’s subregions. The Pinot Gris is sourced from a selection of vineyards in the Awatere Valley, Kekerengu Coast, and Waihopai Valley, each contributing distinctive layers of flavour and texture. The cool maritime climate, long sunshine hours, and free-draining alluvial soils create fruit with purity, aromatic lift, and finely tuned natural acidity. Waghorn’s winemaking philosophy emphasises balance and texture, with a portion of the juice often undergoing wild fermentation and lees ageing to add depth and savoury nuance to the variety’s bright fruit.

In the glass, Astrolabe Pinot Gris is pale straw with a delicate copper tinge. The nose is fragrant with nashi pear, white peach, and honeysuckle, complemented by hints of ginger, almond, and a touch of flint. The palate is supple and medium-bodied, delivering juicy orchard fruit and subtle citrus notes layered over gentle spice and creamy lees texture. Crisp acidity keeps the wine lively, while the finish is long and slightly mineral, making it both refreshing and complex.

It’s a versatile food partner, working beautifully with Thai green curry, pork and apple sausages, creamy seafood pasta, or roasted vegetable and feta tart. Enjoy it fresh and vibrant within three to five years, or allow it to develop more honeyed, savoury tones with short-term cellaring.