2024 Bernard Defaix Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet, Burgundy

Mid lemon and lime. More energy on the nose here. An odd mix, softer in the flesh but vivid at the finish. The length keeps up the good work, but probably one for earlier drinking. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Jul 2025.

90-91 points Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy

Domaine Bernard Defaix is one of Chablis' benchmark family estates, with the Defaix family cultivating vines in the region for generations. Today Didier and Sylvain Defaix continue the domaine's thoughtful approach, combining organic viticulture with restrained winemaking that keeps vineyard character firmly in the spotlight. Côte de Léchet, on the slopes of Milly overlooking the Serein Valley, is a particularly exciting Premier Cru, renowned for its bright citrus character, chalky minerality and wonderfully energetic style.

The 2024 vintage suits Côte de Léchet beautifully, bringing freshness and aromatic lift to a vineyard already known for tension and drive. Its steep, well-exposed slopes and classic Kimmeridgian limestone and marl soils give the wine a distinctly stony, saline personality, while careful élevage builds texture without sacrificing its vibrant Chablis character.

Pale gold with green highlights, the bouquet opens with lemon zest, green apple and white peach alongside white flowers, oyster shell and crushed chalk. With air, hints of grapefruit, wet stone and fresh almond add complexity. The palate is taut and energetic, combining citrus and orchard fruit with racy acidity and a firm mineral core. Leaner and more linear than some of Chablis' broader Premier Crus, it finishes long and mouthwatering with lemon peel, sea spray and chalk.

Bring on the seafood: freshly shucked oysters, grilled prawns, scallop ceviche, sashimi, crab linguine or simply grilled whiting with lemon and butter. Its brightness makes it delicious young, although a few years in bottle will bring another layer of complexity.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2036.