2024 Chateau Barthes Bandol Rose, Provence

Château Barthès sits at La Cadière d’Azur, one of the beautiful hilltop villages of Bandol, with vineyards looking towards the Mediterranean. This is classic Provençal territory, but Bandol has always been the more serious side of the rosé story. Here the wines have enough structure and personality for the table, rather than simply being pale, pretty and forgotten by the time lunch arrives.

Mourvèdre is the key variety in Bandol, typically joined by Grenache and Cinsault. The vines grow in poor limestone rich soils under abundant Mediterranean sunshine, with cooling sea breezes and the mistral helping preserve freshness. The 2024 has had a little time to settle, bringing the fruit, savoury spice and gentle structure together beautifully. There is more substance here than in a simple Côtes de Provence rosé.

Pale salmon pink with copper flashes. Wild strawberry, white peach and pink grapefruit lead into blood orange and redcurrant. Fresh fennel and subtle Mediterranean herbs add a savoury edge, with a faint salty note underneath. The palate is dry and nicely textured, with juicy red fruit and citrus carried by fresh acidity. Grapefruit peel, gentle spice and salinity linger through the clean, appetising finish.

Grilled red mullet with fennel, tomato and saffron would be glorious alongside. Charred octopus with olives, tuna niçoise, garlicky prawns or zucchini flowers filled with ricotta can take lunch in several directions. Bandol rosé is far too useful to be confined to the aperitif hour.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2030.