2024 Clonakilla Ceoltoiri, Canberra District

45/26/11/10/5/3% mourvèdre/grenache/counoise/cinsault/shiraz/roussanne. Quite possibly the finest Ceoltóiri, Clonakilla’s nod to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, to date. Enticing immediately with its red-purple colour. So fragrant with florals, spices galore, wine gum lollies and a touch of smoky/meatiness. It feels light and easy yet comes in at medium bodied, with lithe acidity, astonishingly fine, if plentiful, tannins and a lingering finish.

95+ points Special Value Jane Faulkner winecompanion.com.au

From the cool, wind swept vineyards of the Canberra District, Clonakilla Ceoltoiri offers one of Australia’s most compelling great value Rhône inspired reds. Named after the Gaelic word for musicians, the wine reflects the Kirk family’s long standing fascination with the synergy between Shiraz and Viognier, an approach that helped define the estate’s global reputation. Crafted with the same thoughtful vineyard selection and gentle winemaking as its more famous sibling, Ceoltoiri delivers regional character, spice and drinkability in equal measure.

A vibrant ruby purple fills the glass with youthful energy. Aromas rise with red plum, blackberry and dark cherry layered with cracked pepper, violet and subtle hints of dried herbs and savoury spice. There is an inviting lift to the bouquet that signals freshness rather than weight.

The palate is medium bodied and supple, delivering juicy black fruit and cherry flavours framed by fine tannins and lively acidity. Notes of liquorice, olive tapenade and gentle smoky nuance build through the mid palate, leading to a smooth, flowing finish that makes the wine wonderfully food friendly. Delicious now for its vibrancy and approachability, it will continue to gain savoury complexity over the next five to seven years.

Slow roasted lamb shared across the table, smoky grilled sausages, or rich vegetable dishes enjoyed on a cool evening. Maybe a spin of Midnight Oil Diesel and Dust or something relaxed from Paul Kelly drifting through the room, the wine settling effortlessly into a night that feels generous, warm and unpretentious.