2024 Cullen Kevin John Chardonnay Biodynamic, Margaret River

Always one of our greatest Chardonnays, not just a great Margaret River Chardonnay. Full biodynamics as always, Gin Gin clone from plantings made between 1976 and 1988, largely new oak, we are seeing this wine released in the new lightweight bottles. Environmentally positive, though it does seem to rob the wine of some of its gravitas. Fortunately, it is what is in the bottle that counts. A straw/lemon hue, this is a very youthful Chardonnay, but it is elegance personified, with energy and focus and the signs of very early complexity. There is a beautifully creamy texture here with fine, citrussy acidity. The nose offers notes of peaches, florals, ginger, hints of nectarine, bergamot and lemon curd. This is poised and taut, a wine of precision. Long and lingering, there are notes of oatmeal on the palate. Leave it for a couple of years and it will be very special. Then enjoy for a further twelve to fifteen years.

97 points Ken Gargett winepilot.com

Cullen Kevin John Chardonnay is a shining expression of biodynamic viticulture from one of Margaret River’s most revered wineries. First released in 2003, the wine honours Kevin Cullen, the pioneering founder of the estate, and showcases the region’s potential to craft world-class Chardonnay.

Made by chief winemaker Vanya Cullen, a trailblazer in sustainable and biodynamic winemaking, the Kevin John Chardonnay is estate-grown, certified biodynamic, and consistently rated among Australia’s best Chardonnays. The fruit is hand-harvested according to the biodynamic calendar, whole-bunch pressed, and fermented naturally using wild yeasts in French oak barriques, of which a portion is new. It then spends time on lees, gaining texture and complexity.

In the glass, the wine offers layered aromas of lemon curd, white peach, and flint with hints of cashew and subtle oak spice. The palate is full yet focused, driven by a core of citrus and stone fruit, beautifully balanced acidity, and a saline, mineral finish that speaks to its Wilyabrup origins. It’s tightly coiled on release, with immense ageing potential—10 years or more in top vintages.

Critics have lavished praise on recent releases. The 2022 vintage, for instance, received 98 points from James Halliday, who called it “a wine of precision and power.” Erin Larkin described it as “utterly compelling, with chalky texture and stunning detail.”

Food pairings include grilled lobster, roast chicken with tarragon, or miso-glazed cod. It also pairs exceptionally well with creamy mushroom dishes or truffle risotto.