2024 Dexter Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula

There’s a depth, a richness and savouriness within. Sure, there's citrus and white stone fruit, but it's mostly creamed, nutty lees and spicy oak with a touch of moreish sulphides. Lovely and refreshing acidity is a key element, too. While it is still very much in its primary phase, more time in bottle with reward those who do just that.

93+ points Jeni Port winecompanion.com.au

From the rolling hills of Tuerong on the Mornington Peninsula, this Chardonnay reflects a site driven approach built on precision, restraint and quiet intensity. Dexter is the personal project of winemaker Todd Dexter, who focuses on single vineyard expression and minimal intervention to highlight the natural character of the land. The cool maritime climate and gently sloping clay and loam soils produce Chardonnay with fine acidity, layered fruit and a strong mineral line, favouring structure and balance over overt richness.

The vineyard is farmed with close attention to detail, picking for flavour and natural tension rather than sugar weight. In the winery, whole bunch pressing, wild fermentation and careful oak integration are used to build texture without masking freshness. The result is a wine that feels composed and architectural, shaped more by line and energy than by sweetness or heaviness.

In the glass it shows pale gold with green highlights. Aromas are refined and layered, opening with white peach, lemon zest and nectarine, followed by cashew, subtle spice and a faint flinty edge. There is a gentle saline note that reflects Mornington’s coastal influence, alongside delicate floral tones.

The palate is medium bodied and tightly structured, with citrus and stone fruit wrapped around a creamy, lees driven mid palate. Acidity is bright and persistent, driving the wine long through the finish. Oak sits quietly in the background, adding savoury depth and frame. The finish is clean, mineral and mouthwatering, leaving impressions of citrus oil and crushed stone.

It excels with food, especially grilled fish, scallops, roast chicken, pork, creamy pasta and dishes with butter or herbs. While already compelling with air, it will cellar confidently for six to ten years, gaining nutty, toasty and savoury complexity while holding its cool climate spine.

This is Mornington Chardonnay in a focused, modern voice, precise, textural and built around place rather than show.