2024 Domaine A Stoney Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Coal River Valley

High on the slopes above the Coal River Valley, Stoney Vineyard has long been one of Tasmania’s most distinctive sites, and Domaine A remains one of its quiet benchmarks. Established by Denis Hill in the late 1970s and now under the guidance of winemaker Peter Althaus, the estate has always taken a deliberate, site first approach. Sauvignon Blanc from this part of Tasmania is a very different creature to the louder, tropical styles seen elsewhere, shaped instead by low rainfall, intense sunlight and cool nights that lock in precision and detail.

The vineyard’s sandstone and dolerite soils, combined with the long growing season, produce fruit with concentration and natural acidity, but without excess weight. The result is a wine that feels composed and architectural, more about line and texture than overt aromatics.

Pale straw with a green edge, the nose leans into citrus and subtle complexity rather than overt fruit. Lemon zest, grapefruit pith and green apple sit alongside hints of white currant, fresh herbs and a faint flinty edge. There is a restraint here that draws you in slowly rather than announcing itself.

The palate follows that same thread of precision. Citrus and orchard fruit glide across a finely textured frame, with a gentle savoury note and a mineral line that carries through to a long, dry finish. Acidity is bright but beautifully integrated, giving energy without sharpness. There is a quiet confidence to it, a Sauvignon Blanc that feels more grown up, built for the table rather than just immediate refreshment.

It pairs effortlessly with clean, fresh flavours. Think oysters, scallops with a light beurre blanc, or grilled prawns with lemon and herbs. It also works beautifully with goat’s cheese, asparagus, or a simple roast chicken with thyme where the wine’s subtle savoury edge comes into play.

Enjoy it in its youth for that crisp, detailed profile, or cellar for five to eight years as it gains more texture and complexity.

There is something distinctly Tasmanian about this wine, purity, restraint and a sense of place that reveals itself slowly, best appreciated when you give it a little time and attention.