2024 Domaine Camille Thiriet La Montagne Côte de Nuits-Villages Rouge, Burgundy

50% whole bunch vinification. Very elegant, very stylish, though a bit closer to the earth. Fresh red fruit goes all the way through, with enough grip at the back. Drink from 2027-2030.

90 points Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy

More direct, still. A vibrant aromatic. More vibrant in the mouth too – and juicy. Plenty of wide-finishing tannin but with a very delicate, pretty finishing flavour profile. So delicious and long finishing…

Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report

Not to be confused with the Aux Montagnes négociant bottling, this comes from a high, Estate-owned site (280 metres) on the Corgoloin-Ladoix border. La Montagne lies below Clos Magny (see below) and faces due east. The soils are light and dominated by sandy clay. In Camille's words, the wine combines "the freshness and purity of Savigny with a little more depth and structure of the Côte de Nuits." From 60-year-old vines, this is a lovely release of this wine with loads of dark cherry and dried rose scented fruit and some meaty complexity, fine tannins and excellent length. The use of 50% whole bunches contributes to a long finish full of sappy energy. 

Camille Thiriet has quickly earned a place among Burgundy’s most closely watched younger growers. After working with Nicolas Potel at Domaine de Bellene, she established her own venture in 2016 alongside Canadian winemaker Matt Chittick. Based in Comblanchien, the small domaine has developed an enthusiastic following for its thoughtful vineyard work, gentle extraction and wines that express their individual sites rather than a heavy handed winemaking signature. La Montagne is one of the more distinctive Côte de Nuits Villages bottlings, with a personality shaped by its hillside setting.

As its name suggests, La Montagne comes from a hillside vineyard where elevation and limestone rich soils favour a more fragrant, tightly structured expression of Pinot Noir. Compared with the darker, more grounded character of La Robignotte, La Montagne leans towards red fruit, floral detail and a firmer mineral line. The difficult 2024 season brought lower yields and naturally fresh wines, making careful vineyard selection particularly important. The result is a Pinot that values energy and definition over sheer concentration.

Clear ruby with sour cherry, redcurrant and wild raspberry, followed by violet and peony. Blood orange adds a lively citrus note, while subtle clove, black tea and dried herbs emerge with air. The palate is medium bodied and finely drawn, with crunchy red fruit carried by bright acidity and persistent, powdery tannins. Cherry and raspberry gradually give way to orange peel, gentle spice and a cool, stony finish. There is a lovely tension between its delicate perfume and the more serious structure underneath.

Roast quail with lentils and thyme would be delicious alongside, while duck with cherries, porcini risotto, grilled tuna with sesame or mushroom and Comté pithivier would all complement its savoury detail. Give it some air if opening young, although a few years in the cellar should bring the fruit and structure together beautifully.

Cellaring: Drink from 2027 to 2038.