2024 Maison C. Thiriet Aux Montagnes Côte de Nuits-Villages Rouge, Burgundy

80% destemmed. A very pretty ruby-crimson. Elegance, a suggestion of the ethereal in the nose, very high class. Just a little tension on the palate, from fine-grained tannins, and fine length. Drink from 2028-2030.

91 points Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy

Extra width of aroma – a vibrant energy of darker red fruit. Mouth-filling, juicy, delicious – the tannin supporting the flavours with a small grain, a small fluidity of flavour. Pretty finishing – keep it 3 years to bring an extra softness to the texture…

Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report

This was the cuvée that started it all—the first wine that Thiriet released. Aux Montagnes is a four-hectare parcel directly below the Comblanchien château and quarry. Sited on the belly of the slope at 260 metres—where the Côte de Nuits 1er Crus normally sit—there is only 25cm of clay-limestone before the vines tap directly into the bedrock. The clay here is quite red, with a high iron content. Thiriet works with a parcel of vines from Nicolas Potel’s holdings planted in the 1970s. She uses fewer bunches for this vineyard as the stems add a lot of tannins here. The result is a fine-boned, juicy wine with tension and length.

Camille Thiriet is part of a new generation giving Burgundy’s less celebrated appellations some very welcome attention. After working with Nicolas Potel at Domaine de Bellene, she established Maison Camille Thiriet in 2016 alongside Canadian winemaker Matt Chittick. Based in Comblanchien, the small operation has grown from carefully sourced fruit into a collection of individual vineyard bottlings, with a reputation for fragrant Pinot Noir, sensitive extraction and an admirably light touch in the cellar. Aux Montagnes is another example of why these modestly classified vineyards deserve a closer look.

The Côte de Nuits Villages appellation stretches across several communes beyond the region’s famous names, with limestone and clay soils producing Pinot Noir of considerable character. Aux Montagnes suggests the more elevated, stony side of the appellation, where cooler conditions can favour perfume, acidity and a firmer mineral structure. The 2024 vintage was challenging, with a cool, wet season and reduced yields, but it also produced wines of attractive freshness and delicacy. Here, the emphasis is on bright red fruit, savoury detail and graceful structure rather than weight.

Brilliant ruby with sour cherry, wild raspberry and redcurrant, followed by violet and a little rose petal. Blood orange adds lift, while clove, black tea and a touch of woodland earth provide a savoury counterpoint. The palate is finely textured and energetic, with red berries carried by fresh acidity and delicate, persistent tannins. Cherry and raspberry lead towards citrus peel, subtle spice and a cool, stony finish that lingers without becoming heavy.

Duck and mushroom dumplings would be a wonderful match, while grilled tuna with sesame, roast quail with lentils, porcini and Comté tart or miso glazed eggplant would all suit its fragrant, savoury personality. Serve slightly below room temperature in a generous Burgundy glass and allow a little time for the aromas to develop.

Cellaring: Drink from 2027 to 2037.