2024 Domaine Camille Thiriet Cuvée Deslandes Côte de Nuits-Villages Rouge, Burgundy

80% whole bunches for the Cuvée Deslandes. Not the deepest crimson purple. Camille talks of “the nose of Comblanchien”. Certainly, this shows a savoury aspect with graceful red berry fruit. Discreet at the front, building beautifully behind. Drink from 2027-2030.

90 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy

Camille Thiriet has become one of the most compelling young names in Burgundy, establishing her own venture in 2016 with Canadian winemaker Matt Chittick after gaining valuable experience at Domaine de Bellene. Based in Comblanchien, she has steadily built a reputation for beautifully expressive Pinot Noir, thoughtful vineyard management and a gentle approach in the cellar. Cuvée Deslandes is a particularly personal bottling, carrying a name rather than simply a vineyard designation, and adds another dimension to her small collection of Côte de Nuits wines.

The Côte de Nuits Villages appellation is home to some excellent Pinot Noir vineyards that sit outside Burgundy’s more celebrated village names. Limestone and clay soils, varied exposures and careful vineyard work can produce wines with genuine depth and character. The 2024 season was cool and difficult, with rain and disease pressure reducing yields, yet successful growers produced fragrant, finely structured wines. Cuvée Deslandes has a little more breadth and dark fruit character than Camille’s lighter Bourgogne reds, while retaining the freshness and delicacy that define her approach.

Bright ruby with red cherry, raspberry and a touch of blackberry, followed by violet and dried flowers. Blood orange adds lift, while clove, black tea and a little woodland earth build underneath. The palate is supple and medium bodied, with juicy red fruit supported by fresh acidity and finely grained tannins. Cherry and raspberry move towards darker berry notes, gentle spice and a subtle mineral character, finishing long, fragrant and savoury.

Roast duck with cherries and thyme would be excellent, while porcini risotto, quail with lentils, mushroom and Comté tart or grilled tuna with sesame would all make very good company. A generous Burgundy glass and some air will help reveal the wine’s more delicate details, particularly if opening it young.

Cellaring: Drink from 2027 to 2038.