2023 Hubert & Laurent Lignier Nuits St Georges Les Poisets, Burgundy

Bright crimson colour. A fresh red fruit with a little orange zest. There is a firm structure here after the dark red fruit, fair length, this will need time. A solid, middle section, Nuits-St-Georges. Drink from 2029-2034. Tasted Dec 2024

90-93 points Jasper Morris MW 

Hubert Lignier is one of Morey Saint Denis’ great traditional names, with the family’s roots in the village stretching back to the late nineteenth century. Hubert built much of the domaine’s modern reputation, and today his son Laurent leads the winemaking, working alongside the next generation. The wines remain wonderfully classical Burgundy, focused on vineyard character, perfume and structure rather than gloss or excessive extraction.

Les Poisets is a village lieu dit at the southern end of Nuits Saint Georges, close to the vineyards of Premeaux. Pinot Noir here tends towards the darker, more structured personality associated with the southern side of the appellation. The 2023 vintage brings a lovely counterpoint, with ripe, fragrant fruit giving the naturally muscular Nuits character a little extra charm and accessibility.

Bright ruby crimson, with Morello cherry, raspberry and redcurrant followed by violet and a touch of blood orange. Black tea, clove and subtle forest floor sit underneath, with a cool stony note emerging as it opens. The palate is medium bodied but firmly shaped, with juicy red fruit, lively acidity and fine, slightly chalky tannins. Cherry, orange peel, tea leaf and earthy spice linger through a persistent, savoury finish.

Duck breast with lentils and roasted shallots is beautifully placed here. Porcini risotto, quail with mushrooms, grilled salmon with beurre rouge or a mushroom and Comté tart would take the wine in equally interesting directions. Cellaring: Drink from 2027 to 2038.