2023 Lafarge-Vial Fleurie Clos Vernay, Beaujolais

A fresh elegance to this striking wine, the Côte de Vernay is the most noble by some way. A very complete expression of Fleurie, by no means a single fruit but a velvet covering to a very refined structure. Admirable. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Dec 2024

91-94 points Jasper Morris MW

Frédéric and Chantal Lafarge built their reputation at the family’s historic domaine in Volnay before heading south in 2014 with their daughter Clothilde to establish Lafarge Vial. Beaujolais offered what they love most: old vines, distinctive soils and vineyards that reward painstaking work. The family farms biodynamically and treats Gamay with the same seriousness as Pinot Noir in Volnay, without trying to make it taste like Burgundy. Clos Vernay is one of their particularly compelling expressions of Fleurie.

Clos Vernay is a high, steeply sloping site in Fleurie, with old Gamay vines rooted in the cru’s decomposed pink granite. Its elevation and exposure give the wine a cool, mineral personality, while Fleurie’s natural perfume remains beautifully intact. The 2023 vintage adds ripe, expressive fruit, but this is no simple bowl of berries. There is structure, savoury detail and enough tension to reward time in the cellar.

Luminous ruby crimson with wild raspberry, sour cherry and redcurrant followed by violet and peony. Blood orange and cracked pepper add lift, while anise, black tea and crushed granite provide a darker counterpoint. The palate is silky but finely structured, with pure red fruit riding bright acidity and delicate, persistent tannins. Raspberry and cherry move towards citrus peel, pepper and cool mineral notes across the fragrant, savoury finish.

Duck and mushroom dumplings would be brilliant with its combination of perfume and earthy detail. Grilled salmon with miso, quail with lentils, mushroom and Comté tart or charred eggplant with sesame can all work without overpowering the Gamay. Serve it slightly cool, use a decent Burgundy glass and let it stretch its legs.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2036.