2024 Domaine Collotte Fixin Les Champstions, Burgundy

Domaine Collotte is a small family estate based in Marsannay, where Philippe Collotte and his son Maxime work a patchwork of vineyards across the northern Côte de Nuits. The domaine has built a loyal following for expressive, sensibly handled wines that offer genuine Burgundy character without the increasingly alarming price tags of its grander neighbours. Les Champstions is a Fixin lieu-dit, giving a naturally savoury, structured expression of this often-underrated appellation.

The 2024 vintage was a demanding one in Burgundy, with cool, wet conditions and reduced yields requiring relentless work in the vineyard. For careful growers, the reward was fruit with freshness, perfume and moderate alcohol. Fixin’s limestone and clay soils suit the year particularly well, giving the wine structure and earthy depth without excessive weight.

Bright ruby with crimson edges, the nose opens with sour cherry, wild raspberry and redcurrant, followed by violet, dried thyme and a touch of cracked pepper. With air come notes of forest floor, black tea and damp stone. The palate is energetic and savoury, with crunchy red fruit framed by fine, slightly earthy tannins. There’s a lovely herbal quality through the middle, finishing with tart cherry, spice and a cool stony note.

This one wants rustic food: duck sausages with lentils, pork chops with mustard and thyme, coq au vin, mushroom and Gruyère tart or a bubbling dish of tartiflette. I’d go for the pork chop — plenty of caramelised edges, Dijon mustard and pan juices for that savoury Fixin character to get stuck into.

Cellaring: Drink from 2026 to 2035.