2024 Fetherston Fungi Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley

Ripe red cherry and rose water to a pretty start. The palate is glossy with white pepper pinch and other spices, fresh sweet mint and more glossy cherry and cranberry. Fine texture with a nicely balancing, savoury-stony finish. Very enjoyable.

92 points Kasia Sobiesiak The Wine Front

Wonderfully composed and expressed, showing dark berry, dried herb, fennel, star anise and toasted almond characters. The palate displays a finely flowing mouthfeel, combined with silky texture and layers of polished tannins, making it sturdy yet supple with a lingering, complex finish.

92 points Sam Kim Wine Orbit

Good catch again, that’s an important one.

Fetherston is the Yarra Valley project of Chris Lawrence, whose background across some of the region’s best producers shows in the detail and restraint of the wines. Fungi is his exploration of Pinot Noir’s more savoury, earthy side, leaning into that natural connection between the grape and the forest floor.

The 2024 vintage shows both lift and depth. Red cherry and wild strawberry sit at the core, with a darker thread of plum just beneath. What sets it apart is the savoury layering, dried herbs, a gentle note of mushroom and undergrowth, along with a hint of spice that adds complexity without overwhelming the fruit. It feels expressive and a little wild, in a very appealing way.

On the palate it is finely structured, medium bodied with silky tannins and a line of fresh acidity that keeps everything in balance. The fruit remains bright, but it is framed by those earthy, umami notes that give the wine its character. The finish is long and savoury, with a subtle mineral edge that lingers.

Winemaking leans toward minimal intervention, with thoughtful use of whole bunch and gentle oak handling to build texture rather than dominate. The result is a Pinot that feels both modern and grounded, polished but still full of personality.

This is right at home with dishes that echo its savoury side. Duck with mushrooms, roast chicken with herbs, or a simple risotto loaded with earthy flavours all work beautifully. It also pairs effortlessly with charcuterie or grilled vegetables.

Drink it now to enjoy that interplay of fruit and savoury notes, or cellar for five to eight years as it develops more complexity, with deeper forest floor and spice characters coming forward.