2024 Gaja Gaia & Rey Langhe Chardonnay DOP, Piedmont

Angelo Gaja has never been terribly interested in being told what Piedmont should or should not do. Gaia & Rey is a perfect example. First produced in 1983, it was named for Angelo’s daughter Gaia and his grandmother Clotilde Rey, and became one of the wines that demonstrated just how serious Piedmontese Chardonnay could be. Today Gaia Gaja is deeply involved in the family estate, giving the name an even lovelier connection between generations.

The Chardonnay comes from Gaja’s vineyards in the Langhe, where altitude, cool nights and calcareous soils give the variety the freshness needed to balance its natural richness. This is emphatically not an Italian imitation of Burgundy. Gaia & Rey has developed its own identity over four decades, combining ripe fruit, finely judged oak and considerable texture with the mineral backbone and restraint expected from Gaja. The 2024 is youthful and tightly drawn, with plenty still waiting to emerge.

Bright straw gold, opening with white peach, nectarine and Meyer lemon before grapefruit and acacia blossom appear. Hazelnut, almond meal and subtle vanilla sit alongside struck flint and a faint smoky note. The palate is concentrated and beautifully sculpted, with stone fruit and lemon curd filling the middle while bright acidity keeps the richness under control. Cashew, preserved citrus and mineral notes build through a long, savoury finish.

Butter poached lobster with lemon and chives deserves serious consideration, along with Hokkaido scallops, roast turbot, crab ravioli or cauliflower with brown butter and hazelnuts. Our pick is the lobster, keeping everything else on the plate restrained. With Gaia & Rey in the glass, nobody is going to be discussing the garnish