2025 Pio Cesare Gavi DOCG, Piedmont

Pio Cesare has been part of Piedmont since Cesare Pio founded the estate in Alba in 1881. Five generations later, the family still works from its extraordinary historic cellars beneath the centre of Alba, with Federica Boffa now representing the new generation alongside Pio Boffa’s nephew Cesare Benvenuto. Barolo and Barbaresco may command the headlines, but the whites show the same commitment to traditional Piedmont varieties and regional character.

Gavi is made from 100% Cortese, grown in the hills around the town of Gavi in southeastern Piedmont. Here the Apennines meet influences coming north from the Ligurian coast, bringing cooler nights and breezes that help Cortese retain its naturally crisp personality. The 2025 is all about freshness and purity, with no need for excessive winemaking gymnastics: orchard fruit, citrus, flowers and that gently savoury Gavi character do the work.

Pale straw with green highlights. Lemon, crisp green apple and Nashi pear open into white peach and delicate blossom. Fresh fennel and almond skin add a savoury note, with a subtle stony character underneath. The palate is dry and lively, with citrus and orchard fruit riding bright acidity. Lemon peel and green apple tighten the finish, leaving a clean, lightly saline snap.

Spaghetti alle vongole with garlic, parsley, chilli and good olive oil is almost impossible to argue with. Fried zucchini flowers, grilled prawns, kingfish crudo or anchovies with lemon and parsley will keep things equally fresh. This is the sort of uncomplicated seafood territory where Gavi earns its keep very quickly.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2030.