2025 Rocche Costamagna Arneis, Piedmont

Rocche Costamagna is one of La Morra’s historic family estates, with records of the Costamagna family and their vineyards stretching back to the nineteenth century. Today Alessandro Locatelli carries the estate forward, best known for beautifully traditional Barolo but also working with the white varieties of the Langhe. Arneis shows the lighter, more immediately convivial side of Piedmont and is particularly good at reminding us that the region does occasionally drink something other than Nebbiolo.

Arneis has deep roots in Piedmont, particularly around Roero on the opposite side of the Tanaro River from Barolo. Its name is often associated with the Piedmontese word for a troublesome character, a nod to its reputation as a slightly awkward grape to grow. The 2025 captures its appealing combination of orchard fruit, flowers and gentle savouriness, with freshness rather than oak or weight driving the style.

Pale straw with green highlights. Nashi pear, white peach and crisp apple lead into lemon and delicate white flowers. Fresh fennel and a little almond add savoury detail, with a faint mineral note underneath. The palate is dry and gently rounded, with pear and stone fruit through the middle, lifted by fresh citrus acidity. Lemon peel and almond skin tighten the finish, leaving it clean and quietly savoury.

Vitello tonnato is a Piedmontese classic for good reason, but Arneis is equally happy with grilled prawns, zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta, spaghetti alle vongole or a plate of fried anchovies with lemon.